After losing my last fish from 20G (2 foot tank) and blacking the tank out for six months to kill off the Caulerpa taxifolia (now illegal in New South Wales), I decided I would convert the tank for keeping corals. The tank had already been up an running for over 4 years, had an established DSB and live rock. All it really needed was an upgrade to the lighting (plus skimmer and auto top-off).

For the lighting, I had a choice between 150W metal halide (DE Shoplighter) or going with T5. As I already had the metal halide fitting, that was going to be the cheapest and quickest option, however, I felt I might actually have too much light and at the very least, more light than the corals needed. I also wanted to give T5 lighting a go so I can offer more informed comments. Given that T5 lamps put out at least 50% more light than normal output T8 lamps of the same form factor and that I had a number of corals growing well under 4 normal output fluorescent lamps in a tank that is deeper than 20G, I figured that four T5 lamps would be sufficient for all the corals I wanted to keep: various Acropora spp., pocilloporids, Hydnophora and miscellaneous other genera.

Components

Lighting Components

Table 1 lists the components purchased for the lighting upgrade.

Other Hardware

Completed hood


Figure 1: The inside of the hood showing endcaps, tubes and reflectors.


Figure 2: The rear of the hood.


Figure 3: The rear of the hood with the ballasts exposed.

Irradiance Measurements

To determine how much light I was getting from the T5 tubes, I used my quantum meter (QMSS-ELEC) made by Apogee Instruments. It is not easy to measure the light from all four tubes as I can't get the probe of the quantum meter in the tank with the hood closed. I decided to measure the irradiance from just two of the tubes and assume that the total irradiance would be approximately double with all 4 tubes switched on.

I placed the probe of the quantum meter


Last updated: January 11, 2006